Colours, contrasts rule on New York runways
Feather-light layers of organza and chiffon spilling over Bermuda shorts? It sounds like an odd combination, but Vera Wang pulled it off with panache at New York fashion week.
Wang, a native New Yorker whose wedding gowns are coveted by brides-to-be, celebrated the polar opposites of yin and yang with a structured yet feminine collection of ready-to-wear looks for next autumn and winter.
Her “techno-stretch” Bermuda shorts, resembling cycling shorts to the layman’s eye, appeared under light tan Melton wool coats and jackets, tangerine chiffon V-neck gowns, and dark silk cape tops with necks enveloped in raccoon.
Backstage, Wang cited Gothic cathedrals as a design influence, as she described how decorative elements had been carefully cut as part of each garment rather than just being “slapped on” afterwards.
“We always like tension,” she said, referring to her team. “I like a boyishness next to something sensual. I like transparency next to something strict. I like the mix. It’s that tension that makes it fashion for me.”
Wang matched each outfit with uncompromisingly chunky platform shoes, while models sported rigid, blown-back jetstream hairstyles.
Anybody who saw Marc Jacobs’s collection for Louis Vuitton in Paris a year ago could have been excused for having a sense of déjà vu at his Marc by Marc Jacobs diffusion-line show at the New York National Guard’s Lexington Armory.
Taking a cue from that show’s kinky grand hotel theme, Jacobs topped many of his outfits for men and women with bell-captain hats, and put handbags in the hands of several of his models.
But in lieu of brazen sexuality, he tipped more towards a teasing prudishness with pleated plaid dresses and prim white blouses that could have come from the wardrobe of a young New York secretary in the early 1960s.
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Backstage, Wang cited Gothic cathedrals as a design influence, as she described how decorative elements had been carefully cut as part of each garment rather than just being “slapped on” afterwards. “We always like tension,” she said, referring to her
Backstage, Wang cited Gothic cathedrals as a design influence, as she described how decorative elements had been carefully cut as part of each garment rather than just being “slapped on” afterwards. “We always like tension,” she told AFP, referring to
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